Rolex Submariner 168000 “Ghost Reference” Model

Introducing the Rolex Submariner 168000: a remarkably elusive and vintage timepiece that was exclusively produced for a fleeting period of roughly nine months from the latter half of 1988 in through to the beginning of 1989. Exuding an air of exclusivity and rarity, this unique model holds a special place in horological history.

The Submariner 168000 takes pride in wearing the badge of distinction as the first-ever Submariner model to be constructed using the proprietary material, Oystersteel. This is a specific steel alloy exclusive to the Rolex brand. As per its characteristics, Oystersteel not only resists corrosion with supreme effectiveness, but it also ensures an additional layer of flexibility, facilitating more intricately tailored case designs. The inherent durability of Oystersteel has made this watch a long-lasting, timeless classic that exhibits a striking balance of function and form.

Setting the 168000 model apart from its reference predecessor 16800, the watch was diligently crafted with 904L stainless steel, unlike the 316L stainless steel used in the 16800. This choice in materials contributes significantly to the watch's resilience and longevity, thus enhancing its appeal for connoisseurs and collectors alike. The 168000 was only made for about 9 months (late 1987–mid 1988). Rolex didn’t officially promote it as a new model—the upgrade to 904L steel was an internal, technical change.

Many casual buyers in the late ’80s didn’t even notice the difference between a 16800 and a 168000. It was quickly replaced by the 16610 with a new movement (cal. 3135), so the 168000 feels like a “ghost” that barely existed.

Harking back to its historical journey, the Rolex Submariner was first unveiled in the year 1979 and was powered by the new Caliber 3035 movement. This fresh introduction marked a pivotal turning point in the lineage of Submariner watches as Rolex rolled out its first quickset feature. Unlike its predecessor, the Model 1680, the Rolex Submariner 168000 was thoughtfully fitted with a Sapphire crystal and Ratchet bezel that not only added to its aesthetic charm but rendered it more robust.

Dressed tastefully in a jet-black dial, this maverick timepiece dons a 40mm stainless steel case, yielding a perfect blend of sophistication and masculine elegance. The watch is designed robustly to endure diving depths of up to 1000 ft., fascinatingly blending functionality with refined style. And of course, it seamlessly complements a splendid bracelet, marked with the model 93150, thus adding an extra layer of intrigue to this classic.