Rolex Submariner 168000 “Ghost Reference” Model

We are proud to introduce the Rolex Submariner 168000, a highly distinctive and revered vintage timepiece, beloved by watch aficionados worldwide. Uniquely, this particular model was exclusively produced for a brief period of approximately nine months in late 1988 and early 1989. As fleeting as its manufacture, the Rolex Submariner 168000 exudes an aura of both exclusivity and rarity, setting it apart as a standout in the world of horology and marking it as a critical turning point in watchmaking history.

The Rolex Submariner 168000 wears its badge of distinction proudly as it was the inaugural model of the Submariner series to be crafted using the brand's proprietary material, Oystersteel. Oystersteel, to the uninitiated, is a particular steel alloy exclusive to the Rolex brand, and its application lends an unmatched level of durability to the watch. In terms of characteristics, Oystersteel not only excellently resists corrosion, but it also offers enhanced flexibility that allows for more intricate and sophisticated case designs. As such, the signature durability of this material has shaped the Rolex Submariner 168000 into an enduring classic that brilliantly marries functionality and aesthetic appeal.

Further setting the Submariner 168000 apart are its elemental differences from its reference predecessor, the 16800. Instead of using conventional 316L stainless steel, this remarkable timepiece was meticulously created using a higher-grade 904L stainless steel, a detail not to be overlooked and worth noting as it significantly increases the watch’s resilience and lifespan. This material upgrade bolsters the appeal of the Submariner 168000, making it a fascinating addition to any connoisseur’s collection.

Interestingly, the transition from reference number 16800 to 168000 was conducted quietly, without any official promotion from Rolex. The change to the 904L steel was seen as an internal, technical modification, rather than as a whole new model debut. As a result, many casual buyers during the late '80s hardly noticed the disparity between the 16800 and the 168000 models. The 168000, in fact, 'ghosted' away almost as quickly as it came, being supplanted swiftly by the 16610, which boasted a new calibre 3135 movement.

Tracing the Rolex Submariner's evolution, it was launched in 1979 with the new Caliber 3035 movement, marking a significant milestone in the lineage of Submariner timepieces as it was the brand's first model with a quickset feature. By contrast, the 168000 was holistically designed with a Sapphire crystal instead of the traditional acrylic crystal and was equipped with a ratchet, unidirectional rotating bezel. These judicious additions not only amplified its allure but also increased its robustness, setting it on par with the demands of modern timekeeping.

Aesthetically, the watch presents an impressive, jet-black dial encapsulated by a 40mm stainless steel case, exuding a refined sense of masculinity. Built robustly, the watch can confidently withstand diving depths of up to 1000 feet, a testament to Rolex's commitment to merging functionality with sophisticated design. To complement the overall look and feel of the watch, it pairs gracefully with the splendid bracelet marked with the model number 93150, a detailing that adds a compelling layer of charm and intrigue to an already classic timepiece. Whether on land or sea, day or night, the Rolex Submariner 168000 truly stands as a statement of timeless elegance.